Today, I went on my very first solo surfing attempt, around 3:30pm.
I was excited! So excited that I didn’t even realize until later that I was surfing at the wrong spot, the whole time! I didn’t know it until I came back to the clubhouse and the Mihoko told me that next time, I need to surf on the opposite because that spot is for swimming. LOL. (The lifeguard notice was also in Japanese and incomprehensible at the time I was in the water.)
Anyway, so after an hour of surfing and trying to ride waves, I was able to do 2 swift rides and a swollen middle finger on my right hand and a bruised right knee.
You can just imagine how difficult typing is now for me.
A few things I learned while I learn to spot a good wave and ride a wave:
1. Patience. Ever wave maybe a good one but you have to have patience to wait for the right wave that will pass your way. Or, you have a choice to move to another spot, but that doesn’t usually work.
2. Timing. So, once you think, that it’s a good wave, then maybe it’s a good wave for you.
3. Position. Your body, in the middle of the board, you eye in the eye mark, legs stretched out, your toes pointed outward, then arms should keeping paddling. Then once you feel that the wave is lifting up the board, the arms gets into the board, palms lay flat, strong enough to lift the upper half of the body sliding forward, as the legs glides forward to a jump, then once standing, legs slightly bends, body kept upright and arms spread out on both side to keep balance. Then, enjoy the ride until you touch the shore.
4. Try and try. You will have bruises because of various mistakes while learning to surf. Even the pros have their moments.
I don’t see myself leveling up to a pro, but definitely, surfing is one good sport I would like to keep in my pocket for de-stressing. That means, I gotta keep myself somewhere near the beach with good waves. At least a good distance. Which means, I have to learn how to take better care of my skin, knowing that it will be tanner than ever before. My hair needs better treatment as well, as they will be drier than ever. Haircut? I may have to consider. But I hope not. LOL.
Dear Future Boyfriend, I hope you would still find me attractive with my blemishes, darker skin tone and probably a bit of a shorter hair? Rest assure that I am trying to give myself that self-love that I can give myself until you come, so I can share some with you as well. Watersports? Bring them on! You got yourself a surfer in the making! Xoxo, Meow.